About
A project to eat at every steakhouse in New York City and rank them.
One steakhouse every two weeks. With each visit: one Manhattan cocktail, one shrimp cocktail, one filet mignon, one side of creamed spinach, and one slice of New York cheesecake — scored out of 100, updated twice per month.
There is no shortage of steakhouse coverage in this city. Eater has lists, the Times has reviews, every food publication runs its annual roundup. What seems to be missing is a single project that visits all of them, scores each one by the same rubric, and produces a real, defensible ranking.
The hypothesis is simple. Order the same things at every steakhouse, judge them by the same rules, write up each visit with care, and the resulting list is more useful than any individual critic's gut take. It is also, I hope, more fun to argue with.
It will take roughly three years, so I should be complete mid-2029.
The Rules
Each visit is scored across categories totaling 100 points.
Manhattan
The bar program test. Spirit, vermouth, dilution, cherry, glassware.
10 pts
Shrimp Cocktail
Kitchen basics. Snap, sauce, presentation.
10 pts
Filet Mignon - the control
Execution on the lean cut. Crust, doneness, seasoning, presentation.
30 pts
Creamed Spinach
The control side. Bechamel, nutmeg, texture.
10 pts
New York Cheesecake
The pastry program test. Texture, crust, restraint.
5 pts
The Room
Atmosphere, noise, comfort, that ineffable steakhouse-ness.
10 pts
Service
Knowledge, warmth, pacing.
10 pts
Extras
Bread, butter, the small touches.
5 pts
Value
Did the bill match the experience?

